When you talk to someone about the tasks involved in caring for a plant, in addition to watering, fertilising is included as a simple, everyday task; but in reality very few people are aware of the importance of applying fertiliser correctly and those who do not go beyond fertilising altogether, apply it without taking into account the particular needs of the plant. While compost is food for the plant, it must be used properly.

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Properly used, fertiliser will do wonders for your plants, turning them into thriving specimens with beautiful leaves and spectacular blooms; misuse it and you can even cause root problems and cause your plant to transcend this material plane.

Our mission is to make your life easier, so we will explain everything you need to know about compost, from how and when to use it to the types. We will be your ally to feed your plants properly.

what is compost?

Compost is a substance with an active ingredient of organic or natural origin, which is used to feed the substrate, providing it with the micro or macronutrients necessary for plants to grow and develop better. It can be of plant or animal origin and can be found on the market in different presentations. Although homemade mixtures can be considered a type of compost, this time we will deal with processed and packaged compost. This is because it is much easier to have an idea of the nutrients it adds to the substrate and their ratio.

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That said, did you know there is a difference between compost and fertiliser? While you can use the terms more or less generically, insofar as they are both substances that provide nutrients to the substrate, the big difference is that compost is of organic origin and therefore should be used differently from fertiliser.

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Compost is created when a natural material is naturally broken down by micro-organisms, which digest the materials. This process transforms them into a stable product that can improve soil quality. There are a number of benefits to be derived from the use of organic fertilisers, especially when compared to the use of mineral fertilisers. While each has its place in the care and maintenance of plants, the use of composts has positive side effects.

Advantages of using fertilisers

• They have a greater residual effect than fertilisers, thus reducing the frequency of application.
• They release their nutrients gradually. Although it is true that they do not act as quickly because of this, they protect the plants from excess nutrients, which can burn the roots.
• They improve the physical structure of the substrate. They increase the porosity, the amount of available oxygen and correct the moisture retention capacity.
• They increase the cation exchange capacity or CEC. The CEC is an indicator that refers to the amount of cations that the soil can retain, i.e. it indicates the capacity of the substrate to retain nutrients. If the CEC is low, the soil cannot retain nutrients and loses them, making it unsuitable for feeding plants.
• Fertilisers, being organic, decompose, releasing carbon dioxide and this helps to solubilise other nutrients in the substrate, making them easier for plants to absorb.
• They make the substrate more porous, allowing water to infiltrate better and preventing irrigation from running off the surface.
• It allows us to make use of organic waste, which can be processed into fertilisers. They can even be made at home on a small scale.
• They improve and stimulate soil microbial activity.
• They are more sustainable and environmentally friendly, as they do not require as much energy to produce, can be made using waste and do not pollute water sources.

Types of fertilisers

There are many ways of classifying fertilisers. For example, we can talk about fertilisers according to their presentation. We have solid fertilisers such as compost, worm castings and bokashi. Liquid fertilisers such as slurry and biol, as well as green manure, which is very special. We can also classify them as unprocessed fertilisers, such as manure, green manure, guano, poultry manure and others. Processed manure is manure that combines several elements to create a compost. Examples are compost and bokashi. Regardless of what criteria you use to classify them, some of the most commonly used composts are:

• Manure

Manure is the excrement of herbivorous animals. They are rich in organic matter and provide a good level of nitrogen to the substrate. They are widely used because they improve the physical and chemical properties of the soil, as well as promoting the presence of beneficial micro-organisms that improve fertility. Manure used as fertiliser is usually from sheep, horses, cattle and even chickens, known as chicken manure. In the past, pigeon manure (palomina) was also used.

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Cattle man ure is the most commonly produced and also one of the most beneficial. It is suitable for all types of crops and soils, it brings lightness to clay soil, as well as refreshing the consistency of the substrate. It has a fairly long lifespan. As for the percentage of nutrients it provides, per kilo of fertiliser it has 3.4% Nitrogen, 1.3% Phosphorus and 3.5% Potassium. Although these are not the highest levels, it is precisely this characteristic that makes it so versatile and its main attraction is its conditioning of the substrate. However, it can be combined with other types of fertilisers to obtain the ideal levels for each plant species.

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Chicken manure or chicken manure has a high nitrogen content, which makes it ideal for plants and gardens as it stimulates flowering and the growth of green, radiant foliage. These properties are provided by the poultry feed, which not only consumes a lot of grain but also supplements it with insects and earthworms. Chicken manure has a percentage of 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 4% potassium.

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Horse manure is ideal for cold and very compacted soils, as in addition to the main macronutrients it also makes the substrate lighter and receives better oxygenation. It acts more quickly than other fertilisers, as it ferments easily. Each kilogram of this fertiliser has a ratio of 6.7% nitrogen, 2.3% phosphorus and 7.2% potassium.

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• Worm Humus

Worm humus is the excrement of earthworms, which in the process transforms organic waste into what is known as one of the highest quality organic fertilisers. It has a good main nutrient content (NPK) but also provides micronutrients such as iron, manganese, copper, zinc and others. As if that wasn't enough, it allows to correct and regenerate the substrate as it has a high content of bacteria (about 200 million per gram).

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Worm humus or vermicompost can be used on any type of plant or crop, without fear of affecting its production or balance thanks to its pH, which ranges from 6.5 to 7.5. As for the proportions of nutrients, it has a percentage of organic matter is between 15 to 30%, while its concentration of nitrogen is 3%, phosphorus 3%, potassium 2% and calcium 2%.

• Bokashi

Bokashi is a type of organic fertiliser invented by Japanese farmers. It means "fermented organic matter" and rather than referring to the elements used to make it, it is a composting technique that consists of letting organic materials decompose in a fermentation process. This increases the variety and quantity of micro-organisms in the substrate and provides various nutrients, and can be done locally with the elements available.

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By using active yeasts fed with molasses and wheat germ, it is a faster process than composting and allows all types of organic waste to be used, including meat and dairy. In about 15 days it is possible to complete the fermentation process. It traditionally includes a mixture of green elements, which are high in nitrogen, and a "brown" material, which is high in carbon and water and can be manure.

• Guano

Guano is derived from the Quechua word Wanu and means manure. It is basically produced from the excrement of seabirds, seals and bats. These animals have a diet based on seafood, so their droppings are loaded with loads of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

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Guano is a very complete fertiliser, which allows the soil to regenerate, improves the quantity and quality of nutrients in the substrate, as well as having fungicidal properties, which prevent pests and diseases. For this reason it is one of the most widely used fertilisers for indoor plants.

• Green manure

Green manuring is not only a fertilising technique, but also a way of conditioning the substrate before planting. It involves sowing seeds of legumes, grasses or suitable plants (clover, crotalaria, pigeon peas, alfalfa, sunflower, oats, etc.) which are then cut and incorporated into the substrate, buried while still green. This improves soil conditions and restores the natural balance.

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Green manure also creates a series of biochemical reactions that stimulate microbial growth in the substrate, which allows the mineralisation of nutrients and contributes to the proper absorption of these compounds by the plants. This technique also increases the amount of organic matter in the substrate, raises the pH of the soil, improves water holding capacity and reduces erosion.

When to use fertiliser

There are two key times to use fertilisers: before planting seeds or sowing plants and during the growing season. Using organic fertilisers before planting allows you to condition the soil, creating the perfect environment for the plant to develop beautifully and radiantly. The best part is that organic fertilisers are usually quite gentle, so far from exposing your plant to excess nutrients (which can happen with chemical fertilisers), you will be providing a medium with sufficient organic matter, a good bacterial balance and an adequate level of nutrients.

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It is advisable to use fertilisers during the plant's growing and flowering season, which usually coincides with the warm season of the year: spring and summer. Depending on the temperatures where you live, you can create a fertiliser schedule that allows you to condition the substrate and feed the plant so that it has the nutrients it needs to grow, flower and bear fruit.

With organic fertilisers it is best to start in early spring. Repeat every month and a half. Although with this type of material it is not so easy to commit excesses that damage the plant, it is necessary to always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Each type of fertiliser has a particular concentration, which must be respected, but which could be combined with other fertilisers to meet the particular needs of the plant.

How to use fertiliser

It is very important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for applying fertiliser. In case you are using home-produced fertilisers such as bokashi or compost, you should be aware that many should never be applied directly to the plant. For example, manure should not be put fresh on plants; not only because of the smell but also because it can have the opposite effect. Organic manure goes through a drying and even fermentation process to be suitable for use; for this reason it is advisable to buy it packaged.

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Bokashi is not used on plants, but must be mixed with the substrate or put in a compost bin to finish degrading. The liquids that come from this technique can be used during irrigation. As for guano, it can come in powder or liquid form, so follow the instructions on the packaging to get the most out of it. Traditional compost can be used to prepare the substrate, dissolved in water for irrigation, strategically buried to improve soil conditions or as a mulch to improve moisture retention.