why do the tips of the leaves of my plant turn brown?

You have a beautiful indoor garden, everything looks amazing in your little green haven that fills you with peace and good energy. Then one fateful day you notice that one of the leaves of your plants is looking a bit brown. It's all right, maybe it's part of the natural cycle of the plant. But from one moment to the next many leaves start to look like this. Before you go into crisis and decree the certain death of your little plants, you should read this article.

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There are many causes that can cause this problem in plants, from pests to small mistakes in the care and environmental conditions of the plant. But don't despair, we will show you what the causes are, how to diagnose them and what to do to repair them. If you are wondering why the tips of a plant's leaves turn brown, you have come to the right place, as you will learn everything you need to get them back to their green splendour.

how and why do the tips of plant leaves turn brown?

The leaves of plants are organs that allow the sun's rays to reach them, but they are also tissues through which there is an exchange of fluids throughout the day. Leaf tips start to turn brown when water is lost and is not replenished at the required rate.

Under ideal conditions water travels from the roots of the plant through the stems upwards, until it finally reaches the leaf to the tip. But if the water supply is limited, then it only supplies moisture to the tissues closest to the roots and stem, leaving the tips of the leaves unattended; they dry out and die. This process is initiated by various causes, which prevent the moisture transport and reception systems from working properly. The vast majority of the time the cause of brown tips on plants is linked to inadequate care or environmental conditions that do not respond to the real needs of the species. The most common causes are:

Draughts

The vast majority of popular houseplants are plants of tropical origin, which grow happily in semi-shade because in their natural habitat they live on the ground, protected by the tops of the tallest trees which filter out the strong rays of the sun. Monsteras, Calatheas, palms and more meet these characteristics. Being from tropical climates, low temperatures on this side of the world can affect them. If you place them near a window or door where cold draughts circulate, their tips may start to dry out. Be careful also if the leaves rub against the walls, as this can also cause this problem.

Insufficient watering

If you water the plant too infrequently or too little, then the roots will not have enough liquid to circulate throughout the plant, affecting the tips of the leaves first. Don't let the dryness of the substrate and inadequate watering kill your plant, start watering more often or with enough water. Remember that in the warmer months of the year it is very possible that the plant requires more water, as the high temperatures evaporate the humidity more quickly and do not give it time to absorb it properly; while in the colder months the opposite happens, so you should water less.

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Inadequate substrate

The substrate is where the roots take up water. If the substrate is too porous or has too high a proportion of sand, the water will pass through too quickly and drain away almost immediately. This does not allow the roots to soak in well and have time to absorb the amount of water they need. If the opposite is the case, i.e. the substrate is too compacted, creating a solid block, the water will not penetrate the soil but will run down the walls of the pot, preventing the roots from absorbing water.

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Needs transplanting

When the pot has become too small for the plant, then the roots will be crowded, matted and sticking out where they can. The substrate and space are not sufficient, so the roots have no way of absorbing the right amount of nutrients and moisture. Brown tips are the first symptom, because they can die.

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Direct sun

The most popular tropical houseplants cannot receive direct sun, because they are not acclimatised to it. There are some that can get used to it, but like a person with delicate skin exposed to the sun without protection, the vast majority will not withstand UV rays and high temperatures, so they will end up toasted and may die if they are not relocated.

Over-fertilising

Too much love and care can be just as counterproductive as too little. Too much fertiliser will saturate the substrate, burning and killing the roots. It is important to fertilise in the right season, which is usually in spring and summer, respecting the resting time (winter). It is also important to buy the right fertiliser for the type of plant and use it according to the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.

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Excess salts in the substrate

If you live in an area very close to the sea, there is a possibility that the substrate may have a natural excess of salt. In this case, the ideal is to mix the substrate with a packaged, commercially available substrate that is suitable for the plant species and does not come from the region.

Dry environment

Many houseplants are native to jungles, where they have incredibly high humidity levels due to the density of the vegetation. If your home is too dry because of air conditioning or heating, then it becomes imperative to increase humidity levels to prevent brown tips. This can be achieved in 2 ways: by gently spraying the plant or by grouping several similar species together. When grouped together, tropical plants often create their own micro-climate with certain humidity levels, especially if you add a Ficus Lyrata or Marantha to your collection which act as natural humidifiers.

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what to do if you see brown tips?

Don't waste time. Brown tips are an indication that something is happening to your plant and you need to fix it. To do this, you must diagnose the causes:

- Check all the leaves thoroughly: Do they only have brown tips? is it just one leaf or several? do they have brown marks in other areas? do you see any insects, spots or holes? It is important to check the leaves and stems of your plant very carefully for insects or other signs of pests. If it is just one leaf that is brown, it may be part of the plant's natural cycle, but if there are several, you may have a problem.

- Check the roots: Take your plant and try to pull it gently but firmly out of its pot. Don't be afraid to hurt it, this can be done and is necessary to see how the roots are doing. The main roots should look white, sturdy and firm. They should smell of damp earth. If they look grey or brown and have a rather putrid smell, this is an indication that they are dying because they have been overwatered and are rotting. If the roots look matted, or have the shape of the pot, it is because they have grown too big for the pot that contains them, so they cannot spread out well and absorb water.

- Examine the substrate and drainage: When you take the plant out of the pot, the substrate should be stuck to the base of the plant, retaining its shape but not draining water and loosening easily from the roots. The potting medium should feel cool and moist, but never waterlogged. Roots need air to breathe and this can only be provided by a loose substrate. When you waterlog the plant substrate the roots rot and cannot develop new extensions, so the plant starts to die. You should check the drainage holes very well, making sure that they are not blocked. You can place a layer of pebbles or recycle pieces of polystyrene to facilitate drainage.

If, when you remove the plant from the pot, the substrate immediately crumbles or becomes compacted into a hard, dry and compact form, then the water drains away and does not penetrate the excessively dry or sandy substrate. You need to break up the lumps of substrate, improve the mix and rehydrate it.

- Look for fertiliser residues:

When a plant is confronted with misapplied fertilisers, in very high doses, excess mineral salts concentrate in the substrate. The same can happen if you have pets that wee on the plant. These excesses steal moisture from the plant and create an artificial drought. Check the substrate and drainage plates for a white, crust-like residue, as this is indicative of this problem. To remove the excess you can "wash" the substrate with plenty of watering.

Remember to fertilise only during periods of active growth, i.e. spring and summer. The amount to use depends on the manufacturer and type of fertiliser. To avoid these inconveniences, it is advisable to read the instructions for use carefully and even to prefer extended-release fertilisers, which come in the form of tablets or solid sticks that are buried in the substrate and allow it to be released little by little, as you water.

How to eliminate brown leaf tips

Once you have determined the causes of brown tips on your plant, it is time to get down to work and start solving the problem. Some people allow the plant to run its course and replace the leaves on its own, while others of us prefer to do something about it. The fundamental thing is always to do something to remedy what caused the problem in the first place and then take care of the aesthetic side.

- Cut the leaves with scissors

Take a sharp, clean pair of scissors. Trim off the brown tips trying to follow the shape of the leaves. This is an aesthetic issue, as it will not treat what caused the problem in the first place. If you are going to cut several plants it is advisable to disinfect the scissors between each cut with a little alcohol to avoid spreading diseases, bacteria, fungi and others. The scissors should be sharp, as they make cleaner cuts and do not damage the blade, which limits injuries to the plant.

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There are those who recommend leaving a burnt part, this is so as not to stress the plant so much and not to force it to heal so much tissue at once. For me the rule is simple: if it is a couple of leaves, I cut it following the shape of the plant, but if there are a lot of leaves I prefer to remove only the brown part, leaving a small portion.

If the problem is too much compost

You should wash the plant's substrate so that it washes away the excess fertiliser. Some people water generously, while others prefer to submerge the whole pot in a bucket of water for several minutes. It sounds like overkill, but if the plant is well-drained it should be fine. Remember also to wash the leaves of the plant with plenty of distilled water or filtered water, in case the burns on the leaves are due to minerals, urine or fertiliser that has soaked into the plant. Don't forget to put enough on the stems.

If the problem is a lack of root space

The solution is very simple: you need to transplant. Prepare a pot of the right size, which is suitable for the required root depth and is a couple of inches larger in diameter than where it was. Avoid overdoing it with the size of the new pot, as if it is too big, it will accumulate moisture and affect the health of the roots. Remember to use a substrate that is appropriate for the type of plant. It should always be somewhat loose, to improve drainage and root ventilation.

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If the problem is related to watering

Avoid watering by inertia, because you have a schedule to do it. Ideally, first test the temperature and humidity of the substrate with your fingers. From there decide how much and when to water. If you don't want to get your hands dirty, you can always buy a terracotta watering indicator (there are some really cool ones in the shape of little animals that are also decorative). If the soil feels wet, wait a day and check again. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

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To give you an idea of how much water a plant needs: most outdoor and tropical plants require at least one inch of rainwater per week. When watering at home, this equates to about 20 litres of water per square metre.

If you use regular tap water, let it stand for 24 hours in the watering can to reduce fluoride and chlorine levels. Water abundantly but space it out. In other words, it is preferable to put enough water in once a week rather than a little bit at a time every day. Water generously, until you see water coming out of the drainage holes. I like to put them in the shower and give them a good bath. I let them drain well and then relocate them. For succulents and succulents (which should not get wet) I prefer to water by submerging the pot in a container with enough water and let them absorb all the water they need.

If the problem is a very dry environment

Tropical plants require high levels of humidity in the environment. To improve the humidity levels in a space you have several routes. You can use a sprinkler with some frequency to dampen the leaves with a fine mist. Avoid doing this with a container or similar, as the idea is to create a thin layer of moisture that does not affect leaf function. If you put too much water on, it can get burnt by the action of the sun's rays and if it does not dry quickly, the accumulated moisture is the perfect breeding ground for fungi that cause mildew and rot.

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Another option is to place the plant on a saucer containing a layer of gravel and water. This way the water will evaporate little by little, increasing the humidity, but the roots do not remain in direct contact with the water thanks to the pebbles. The simplest route (and my favourite) is to group plants with similar requirements. When grouped together, they help to improve humidity levels, especially if you add a dracaena to your collection. Remember to keep your plants away from heating and air conditioning and, if you find that despite your care, brown tips are still appearing, you can always purchase a humidifier for your plants.

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About the author
Ame Rodríguez

Dedicated to creating an army of cacti, succulents, poodles and cats to help me conquer the world. In the little free time I have left, I play, write and dance.

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