Keep your orchids perky and bright
Few flowering houseplants are as beautiful as orchids, and few, in turn, have such a reputation for being difficult to grow. However, there are many varieties that are relatively easy to maintain. Even if you are a beginner in growing and gardening, you can make orchids thrive and flourish if you know the plant better and follow a few tips.
Types of Orchids
There are thousands of species and hybrids of orchids, but there are two most popular genera. These are, on the one hand, the hybrids of phalaenopsis, which are also known as moth orchids, with broad leaves on the underside and long stems crowned by pink, white, yellow or purple flowers.
On the other hand, there are dendrobium, hybrids also called cane orchids, which bear several flowers along leafy, upright stems.
Also, you should know that indoor orchids are mainly epiphytic (those that grow on trees) or lithophytic (those that grow on rocks). In their natural habitat, that means they use trees or rocks as a support and a way to feed on the plant debris accumulated around their roots. There are also some terrestrial species that grow in the soil.
Although they have this nature, many epiphytic and lithophytic orchids can be grown in pots containing a specialized, free-draining orchid fertilizer. In this way, the orchids often form aerial roots outside the container.
How to care for your orchids
The most important thing to know about your orchids is their need for water. Ideally, you should water them once a week, checking their soil frequently until you have an exact idea of how much water your orchid needs. It is advisable to keep in mind that you should let the soil dry out a bit between waterings.
Orchids grown indoors can benefit from extra moisture. The best way to achieve this is to place a humidifier tray underneath the plant. To do this, cover the bottom of a shallow tray with a layer of small pebbles (small, rounded stones) and then add water just below the top of the pebbles. Place the plant on top, making sure the bottom of the pot doesn't touch the surface of the water. Eventually, the water will slowly evaporate, adding moisture to the air around your plant.
Fertilisation, the key to maintaining its vigour
Fertilize your orchids once a week with a balanced, houseplant fertilizer diluted to a quarter. Finally, repot your orchid every three years or so, transferring it to a container of a larger size, preferably an orchid pot, which allows the roots to receive more air. These pots have holes, indentations, or other openings on the sides to improve airflow at the plant's roots.
After the orchids bloom, the flowers usually drop. This is normal, don't think you've taken bad care of her! And, in addition, the plant will take its time to bloom again. That's why we recommend that you leave your plant near or in the shade of a tree, in a cool place, until flowers grow again. Orchids have an extraordinarily long lifespan (up to 100 years or more) so they sometimes outlive their owners. In fact, orchid fanatics leave their prized orchids to others in their will.
Temperature and light in Orchids
Orchids like a wide range of temperatures, so choose the best position in the house to meet your orchid's needs.
On the one hand, we find fresh-growing orchids, such as Brassia, Dendrobium or Oncidium. All of them need a minimum temperature of 10°, so a greenhouse or an unheated indoor room will be ideal for their care. If grown in a warmer environment, flowering will be reduced. On the other hand, they can be placed outdoors in summer, in a shady place.
On the other hand, intermediate-temperature orchids such as Miltoniopsis and Paphiopedilum prefer a minimum temperature of 13-15°.
Finally, warm-growing orchids, such as the ever-popular Phalaenopsis, enjoy indoor room conditions year-round, with a minimum temperature requirement of 18°C.
Watering, Humidity & Feeding
Orchids prefer high humidity, but their roots rot easily in wet compost, so water once a week with warm rainwater.
Ideally, water from above and always pour the water that collects in the saucer under the pot. Alternatively, submerge the bowl in a bucket of water and let it drain completely. From time to time, we recommend that you spray the foliage and aerial roots with water. And remember, reduce humidity in winter, if temperatures are low.
So, as you may have gathered, orchids have different feeding requirements. However, as a general rule, we recommend feeding them a liquid orchid fertilizer every three waterings during the growing season.
When to transplant my orchids?
Repotting orchids can be done every two to three years, regardless of whether the orchid has outgrown its pot, as old orchid compost decomposes and prevents air from reaching the roots, leading to disease.
Always use a proprietary bark-based orchid compost – never a loam-based or standard multi-purpose – as these will kill your orchid.
When transplanting your monopodial orchids, such as phalaenopsis, if the remaining roots fit comfortably into the old pot after removing the old compost and dead roots, reuse the pot. A pot that is too large will cause the compost to dry out very slowly after watering, leading to root rot.
With sympodial orchids (which form clumps) it is best to use a pot that is wide enough to allow for two years of new growth. Cymbidiums are best transplanted in spring, just after flowering.
Different Modes of Orchid Propagation
Propagating orchids from seed requires specialized laboratory equipment, however some orchids can be successfully propagated by other means:
- With seedlings:
They appear at the growing points of the stems of some species. What you'll need to do is separate the seedlings when they've developed several roots and place them in orchid compost. You should water sparingly at first and spray them daily.
- From stem cuttings:
Cuttings can be taken from many Dendrobium orchids. A stem up to 30 cm long has to be cut and cut into 7 to 10 cm sections, with at least one dormant shoot in each section. The cuttings should then be placed in a damp moss tray.
- By division:
This method can be used to propagate orchids such as Cattleya, Cymbidium, and Oncidium in spring, just after flowering. Only plants that are overcrowded in the pot need to be divided. Cut off the rhizomes that attach to the pseudobulbs, making sure that each division has at least three healthy pseudobulbs. Trim any dead roots and remove brown, wrinkled pseudobulbs before repotting the divisions individually.
What Are the Common Problems of Growing Orchids
The main cause that affects the health of orchids is usually overwatering, which is perceived when the roots become soft and soggy. The death of the root causes the plant to collapse.
Another risk you can take is overfeeding, which causes damage to the root. In severe cases, the roots and compost are covered with fertilizer crystals. To fix this, you need to submerge the pot in water to dissolve the excess fertilizer. Do not exceed the recommended doses of applications and do not feed your orchid during the resting period.
The next common problem is sunburn, which leads to bleached and burnt leaves. To solve this, provide shade for your plant and avoid direct sunlight. Another problem with orchids is the lack of flowering. This may suggest the need for a rest period and/or a period of lower temperature to initiate flowering.
Orchids can also be attacked by scaly insects, whiteflies, spider mites, or mealybugs.
If you leave your plant outdoors during the summer, protect it with specific products from slug and snail damage as well. Orchids can also be affected by various viruses. Symptoms include pale green to yellow spots, brown, black, and other discoloration patterns or stripes, or ring patterns.