You have a beautiful indoor garden, everything looks amazing in your little green haven that fills you with peace and good energies. And one fateful day you notice that a leaf of your plants looks a little toasted. It's okay, maybe it's part of the plant's natural cycle. But all of a sudden, many leaves start to look like this. Before you go into crisis and decree the certain death of your plants, you should read this article.
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There are many causes that can cause this problem in plants, from pests to small errors in the care and environmental conditions of the plant. But don't despair, we'll show you what the causes are, how to diagnose them and what to do to repair them. If you're wondering why the tips of a plant's leaves turn brown, you've come to the right place, as you'll learn everything you need to get them back to their green splendor.
How and why does the tip of the plant's leaves turn brown?
The leaves of plants are organs that allow us to obtain the sun's rays, but they are also tissues through which there is an exchange of fluids throughout the day. The tips of the leaves begin to turn brown when there is water loss and water is not adequately replenished at the required rate.
Under ideal conditions, water travels from the roots of the plant through the stems upwards, until it finally reaches the leaf to the tip. But if the water supply is limited, then it is enough to provide moisture to the tissues closest to the roots and stem, leaving the tips of the leaves unattended; that dry up and die. This process is initiated by different causes, which prevent the moisture transport and reception systems from working properly. The vast majority of the time the cause of brown tips on plants is linked to inadequate care or environmental conditions that do not respond to the real needs of the species. The most common causes are:
Drafts
The vast majority of popular houseplants are plants of tropical origin, which grow happily in semi-shade because in their natural habitat they live on the ground, protected by the tops of the tallest trees that filter the strong sunlight. Monsteras, Calatheas, palm trees, and more meet these characteristics. Being from tropical climates, the low temperatures on this side of the world can affect them. If you place them near a window or door where cold drafts circulate, their tips may begin to dry out. Be careful if the leaves rub against the walls as well, because it can also cause this problem.
Underwatering
If you water the plant infrequently or in small amounts, then the roots will not have enough fluid to circulate throughout the plant, affecting the leaf tips first. Don't let dry soil and improper watering end up killing your plant, start watering more often or with enough water. Remember that in the warmer months of the year it is very possible that the plant requires more water, as high temperatures evaporate moisture faster and do not give it time to absorb it properly; while in the colder months the opposite happens, so you should water less.
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Unsuitable substrate
The substrate is where the roots take in the water. If the substrate is too porous or has a very high proportion of sand, the water will pass through too quickly and drain away almost immediately. This doesn't allow the roots to soak well and have time to absorb the amount of water they need. If the opposite is the case, i.e. the substrate is compacted too much, creating a solid block, the water will not penetrate the soil but will run off the walls of the pot, and will prevent the roots from absorbing water.
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Need a transplant
When the pot has outgrown the plant, then the roots will be tight, matted, and sticking out wherever they can. The substrate and space are not enough, so the roots do not have a way to absorb the right amount of nutrients and moisture. Brown tips are the first symptom, because they can die.
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Direct sun
The most popular tropical houseplants can't get direct sun, because they're not acclimated for it. There are some that can get used to it, but just like a person with delicate skin who is exposed to the sun without protection, the vast majority will not resist UV rays and high temperatures, so they will end up toasted and may die if they are not relocated.
Excess fertilizer
Too much love and care can be just as counterproductive as the absence of it. Too much fertilizer will saturate the substrate, burning and killing the roots. It is important to fertilize in the right season, which is usually in spring and summer, respecting the resting time (winter). In addition, it is important to buy the right fertilizer for the type of plant and use it following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.
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Excess salts in the substrate
If you live in an area very close to the sea, there is a possibility that the substrate naturally has an excess of salt. In this case, the ideal is to mix the substrate with a packaged one, of a commercial brand that is suitable for the plant species and that does not come from the region.
Dry environment
Many houseplants are native to jungles, where they have incredible humidity levels due to the density of the vegetation. If your home is too dry from the air conditioning or heating, then it becomes imperative to increase humidity levels to avoid brown tips. This is achieved in 2 ways: by delicately spraying the plant or by grouping several similar species together. When together, tropical plants tend to create their own micro-climate with certain levels of humidity, especially if you add a Ficus Lyrata or Marantha to your collection that act as natural humidifiers.
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What to do if you see brown tips?
Don't waste time. The brown tips are the indications that something is happening to your plant and needs to be fixed. To do this, you must diagnose the causes:
- Check all the leaves well: Do they only have brown tips? Is it a single leaf or is it several? Do they have brown markings in other areas? Do you see any insects, spots, or holes? It's important to check your plant's leaves and stems very carefully for insects or other signs of pests. If it's a single leaf that's brown, it may be part of the plant's natural cycle; On the other hand, if there are several, you may have a problem.
- Check the roots: Take your plant and try to pull it out of its pot in one gentle but firm tug. Do not be afraid to hurt him, this can be done and it is necessary to see how the roots are. The taproots should look white, robust, and firm. They should smell like damp earth. If they look gray or brown and have a rather putrid smell, it is an indication that they are dying because they have been overwatered and are rotting. If the roots look matted, or are shaped like the pot, it's because they've grown too large for the pot that contains them, so they can't spread well and absorb water.
- Examine the substrate and
drainage: When you remove the plant from the pot, the substrate should stick to the base of the plant, retaining its shape but without draining water and easily releasing from the roots. The substrate of the plants should feel cold and moist, but never waterlogged. Roots need air to breathe and this can only be provided with a loose substrate. When you puddle the substrate of the plant, the roots rot and cannot develop new extensions, so the plant begins to die. You should check the drainage holes very well, taking care that they are not clogged. You can lay down a layer of pebbles or recycle pieces of polystyrene to make drainage easier.
If removing the plant from the pot immediately dissolves or becomes compact in a hard, dry and compact form, then the water runs off and does not penetrate the substrate that is excessively dry or sandy. You need to separate the clods of substrate, improve the mixture, and rehydrate it.
- Look for fertilizer residues:
When a plant is confronted with poorly applied fertilizers, in very high doses, the excess mineral salts concentrate in the substrate. The same can happen if you have pets that pee on the plant. These excesses steal moisture from the plant and create an artificial drought. Check the substrate and drainage plates for white, crust-like residue, as this is indicative of this problem. To remove the excess, you can "wash" the substrate with plenty of watering.
Remember that it should only be fertilized during periods of active growth, i.e. in spring and summer. The amount to use depends on the manufacturer and type of fertilizer. To avoid these inconveniences, it is advisable to read the instructions for use carefully and even prefer extended-release fertilizers, which come in the form of solid tablets or bars that are buried in the substrate and allow it to be released little by little, as it is watered.
Once
you've determined the causes of brown tips on your plant, it's time to roll up your sleeves and start solving the problem. There are those who allow the plant to continue its life course and replace the leaves on its own, while others prefer to do something. The fundamental thing is always to do something to remedy what caused the problem in the first place and then take care of the aesthetic part.
- Cut the leaves with scissors
Grab a sharp, clean pair of scissors. Trim the brown tips trying to follow the shape of the leaves. This is an aesthetic issue, as it will not deal with what caused the problem in the first place. If you are going to cut several plants, it is advisable to disinfect the scissors between each cut with a little alcohol to avoid spreading diseases, bacteria, fungi and others. The scissors must be very sharp, as they make cleaner cuts and do not mistreat the blade, which limits the wounds suffered by the plant.
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There are those who recommend leaving a burnt part, this is so as not to stress the plant so much and not force it to heal so much tissue at once. For me the rule is simple: if it is a couple of leaves, I cut it following the shape of the plant, but if there are many I prefer to remove only the brown part, leaving a small portion.
If the problem is too much fertilizer
You should wash the substrate of the plant so that it washes away the excess fertilizer. Some people water generously, while others prefer to soak the entire pot in a bucket of water for several minutes. It seems like a stretch, but if the plant has good drainage it should be fine. Also remember to wash the leaves of the plant with plenty of distilled water or filtered water, this is in case the burn of the leaves corresponds to minerals, urine or fertilizer that has been soaked on the plant. Don't forget to put enough on the stems.
If the problem is a lack of space for the roots
The solution is very simple: you need to do a transplant. Prepare a pot that is the right size, that is suitable for the required root depth, and that is a couple of inches larger in diameter than where it was. Avoid overdoing it with the size of the new pot, because if it is too big, it will accumulate moisture and affect the health of the roots. Remember to use a substrate appropriate for the type of plant. It should always be somewhat loose, to improve drainage and ventilation of the roots.
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If the problem is related to watering
Avoid watering by inertia, because you have a schedule to do it. Ideally, you should first test the temperature and humidity of the substrate with your fingers. From there, you decide how much and when to water. If you don't want to get your hands dirty, you can always buy a terracotta watering indicator (there are some very cool ones in the shape of animals that are also decorative). If the soil feels damp, wait a day and check again. If it feels dry, it's time to water.
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To give you an idea of how much water a plant needs: Most outdoor and tropical plants require at least an inch of rainwater a week. When you water at home, this equates to about 20 liters of water per square meter.
If you use regular tap water, let it sit for 24 hours in the shower to reduce fluoride and chlorine levels. Water liberally but spaced out. In other words, it is preferable to put enough water once a week than to do it a little at a time each day. Water generously, until you see water coming out of the drainage holes. I like to put them in the shower and give them a good bath. I leave them draining well and then relocate them. For succulents and succulents (which shouldn't get wet) I prefer to water by submerging the pot in a bowl with enough water and letting them absorb all the water they need.
If the problem is a very dry environment
Tropical plants require high levels of humidity in the environment. To improve the humidity levels of a space, you have several routes. You can use a sprinkler from time to time to moisten the leaves with a thin layer of dew. Avoid doing it with a container or similar, as the idea is to create a thin layer of moisture that does not affect the function of the leaf. If you put too much water, it can burn with the action of the sun's rays and if it doesn't dry quickly, the accumulated moisture is the perfect breeding ground for fungi that cause mold and rot.
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Another option is to place the plant on a plate that contains a layer of gravel and water. In this way, the water will evaporate little by little, increasing the ambient humidity, but the roots do not remain in direct contact with the water thanks to the pebbles. The simplest route (and my favorite) is to group plants with similar requirements. When they are together, they contribute to improved humidity levels, especially if you add a dracena to your collection. Remember to keep your plants away from heating and air conditioning, and if you see brown tips still appearing despite your care, you can always buy a humidifier for your plants.